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How To Make Wooden Slat Room Divider

Harleigh Roach / / 19 March 2022, 08:04:14
How To Wooden Slat Room Divider Wood Divis Ripado Madeira Maker Projecto Como Fazer Project Img Vi

I started out by designing the room divider in SketchUp according to customer requirements, and came up with this final shape. Instead of solid wood, we opted to use 30mm thick plywood with natural oak veneer. But this time, I got all the pieces precut to size and edge banded, which made my life much easier. After laying all the pieces on the floor in their final position, I marked each and every connection with numbers, to make it easier to assemble later on. I set my dowel jig so that I can use it repeatedly on the top of every board.

There’s a link for this useful jig down in the description in case you’re interested. Then I drilled three 10cm holes on both ends of each board, being careful to use the jig always in the same position. I countersink the holes slightly using a countersink bit to remove some splints, and then remove all the dust with my shop vac. For the longer boards I had to lay them on the workbench and drill the holes horizontally. Then, I carefully mark the location of the dowels in the surface of the boards.

And using the jig with the same settings as before, I make the holes on both ends of the boards. But for the holes in the middle, I had to readjust the jig, so that I can drill in a flat surface. I have to make sure the center of the jig is perfectly aligned with the pencil line, and hold it place using clamps. Then, it’s just a matter of repeating the process for the next few hundred holes. After drilling the holes for the dowels, I sanded all the boards with 120 grit sandpaper, using my orbital sander.

Being careful to rewrite all the numbers in the same position afterwards. In order to fix the divider in place I predrilled holes for the screws that will connect the structure to the floor, the ceiling and the wall. Now it’s time to start assembling, and after studying all the possibilities, I decided to start with the smaller parts and the ones that have more connections between them. I use wood glue on each and every dowel hole, as well as on the ends of each board to ensure a strong bond. Clamps have to be used to keep all the connections tight, and I leave them to dry a couple of hours while assembling other parts.

I try to clean the glue that spreads out as much as I can with a damp cloth. If the dowel holes are done correctly, everything should be perfectly square, but every now and then I check it using a square. The longer boards have more connections and so they need to be assembled faster, because the glue that I’m using has a short drying time. I did not use any glue on the top and bottom boards, in order to be able to disassemble the divider to make it easier to transport. Instead, I used wood screws.

I gave it a last hand sanding with 180 grit sandpaper to remove any assembling marks, dirt or small glue residues. And then applied two coats of mate varnish, with a fine sanding between them. I decided to use an edge banding leftover to make some small circles to cover the visible screw heads. I didn’t film the installing in place but it’s quite easy as it’s only a matter of drilling a couple of holes in the ceiling, floor and wall, and install the divider using screws. The final result looks great, and it’s a very good option when you want to divide two areas of the same room, and you don’t want to block the light completely.